Tuesday, April 27, 2010

Stars of Burma; Password - Mango

I think it would be safe to say that any respectable San Franciscan who has a simile of social life has at least  heard of Burma Superstar and its sister, B Star Bar.

Both are restaurants on Clement Street, less than a block away from each other, under the same ownership and serving a similar menu of Burmese food. On Yelp, they both average four stars and get kudos for their fare, which is apparently a combination of Chinese, India and Thai cuisine over unique Burmese preparation techniques. Mango (in many shapes and preparations) seems to be the unifying element cutting across appetizers, salads and entrees, and thank God for that. I would’ve never thought of mango as a main ingredient in a pork dish, and it rocks!

Having visited both restaurants a total of 3 times in under 2 weeks, I feel compelled to commit to paper some notes on the cuisine, ambiance and service, before they fade away in the cloud of cheap take-out, salad bars and numerous Trader Joe’s dishes that make up most of my nourishment these days.

Burma Superstar is at its very best on weeknights. In fact, the difference is so great between weekdays and weeknights that they might as well call them Weekday Superstar and Weekend-Fussy-Diva-Past-Her-Prime.  Tuesday evening we waited about 45 minutes for a table of six and on a Saturday evening about 2.5 hours again for a tabletop of six. On Tuesday we got seated at the house’s only 8-top, with a turn table in the middle, which made is exquisitely easy to share dishes and impressions. On Sunday, drunk, cold and unnerved, we were hurried through courses not only by the waiter but also by the notion that another hungry, drunk an unnerved 6-top was breathing down our neck outside, checking on the progress of our meal through the window. “Are they done yet?” “They just got their appetizers”. Or maybe that was us, waiting for the people before. (Before you judge: it's hard NOT to get drunk when you walk all day and wait to get seated until 9:00 PM... ) 

At any rate, in terms of ambiance, I am strongly biased in favor of the Weekday Superstar. The food, however, in both instances, was delicious and refreshing. From the mango salad (pickled mango! who knew?) and samusas to the basil chicken and lamb curry, even the vegetarian dish, which featured ginko nuts that were surprisingly pleasant – everything was adventure and delight. So maybe the mango chicken and the basil chicken were almost indistinguishable and the wood ear mushrooms tasted, well, a bit wooden, but really, that’s it.

As to B Star: take Weekday Superstar, add the possibility of making reservations, replace experienced staff with younger, slightly clumsier, but more accommodating folks, compress the menu a bit, eliminating the more hard-core Burmese stuff but adding salmon ochazuke (mmm….) and polish the décor to a more asian-fusion look – and there you go. I can strongly recommend the fried trout on a bed of rice and (!) mango, the pan roasted sea bass and the aforementioned ochazuke which is a so-called “comfort food” dish, which in the Japanese mindset includes green tea, salmon  and poached eggs.

Let me know what you think of either restaurant next time you try them. I LOVE to compare notes.  

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